Rake fallen leaves from lawns so they don’t smother the grass, blocking out light and moisture. Add these to a leafmould pile, or push to the back of beds and borders where they will naturally rot down and enrich the soil while providing habitat.
Mow if necessary during mild weather, as grass continues to grow in temperatures above 7°C. But raise the cutting height to about 5mm (¼in) higher than in summer. Mowing will also help to discourage any annual weeds that have sprung up in new lawns sown earlier in the autumn.
Carry out autumn lawn care if not already completed, as long as the soil isn’t waterlogged and the weather isn’t very wet, snowy or frosty. This will improve the lawn’s resilience and appearance next year.
There’s still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs in lawns to add colour and pollinator-friendly flowers – great choices include snowdrops, crocuses and daffodils. Plant in specific areas that can be left unmown before and after flowering.
​Straighten lawn edges using a half-moon edging tool and a board, or use a hosepipe or string to mark out a curve, which can then be cut along with the edging tool. Flick the soil away as you go to form a 8cm (3in) deep ‘gutter’ around the lawn, which will reduce grass spreading into your borders.
Lay a new lawn from turf during mild spells, if the soil isn’t waterlogged and the weather isn’t very wet, snowy or frosty.
Early November isn’t too late to sow lawn seed. In cold weather or colder areas of the UK, wait until March or April.
If your lawn gets damaged and muddy from being walked over regularly in wet weather, consider laying stepping stones across it. Set them level with the soil surface so they don’t interfere with mowing.
Avoid walking on a frosty lawn, as this can damage the blades of grass, which go brittle in the cold. It may leave brown footprints that can take a while to disappear.
Toadstools and fairy rings often appear on lawns at this time of year. Most are harmless saprophytic fungi that feed on decaying organic matter. However, remove toadstools if the lawn is accessible to small children, wearing gloves.
Dig out any unwanted lawn weeds by hand. Remember that many wild plants that appear in lawns, such as dandelions, clover, buttercups, daisies and self-heal are highly valuable to pollinators and other wildlife.
​I´Ú moss is a problem (usually only in damp, poorly drained lawns) and you want to get rid of it, try removing with a spring-tined rake first. See our guide to moss in lawns.
Algae can appear on lawns with poor drainage or excessive shade, or under the drip-line of trees. Prune back any overhanging trees or shrubs to improve airflow and light. Or consider replacing the lawn with shade-tolerant groundcover plants instead.
Look out for waterlogging as the weather gets wetter. To improve drainage, spike the lawn with a garden fork or mechanical aerator, then brush a mix of sharp sand and loam into the holes. See our guide to autumn lawn care, or tackle in spring, depending on the weather.
Yellow or brown patches at this time of year may be caused by the fungal disease fusarium patch, especially in wet weather and in overfed, lush lawns that have been left a bit too long. Small patches should recover; larger areas may need re-seeding.
Worm casts are a sign of healthy soil, but if you don’t like them on your lawn, brush them off with a hard broom once they dry out.
See all our lawn care advice.
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