
Quick facts
Suitable for - A range of hardy climbers, herbs, groundcover, shrubs and trees
Timing - Late summer to early autumn
Difficulty - Easy
Suitable for...
Climbers, including ivy, passion flower, Solanum and Trachelospermum, lend themselves to .
Evergreen shrubs such as Artemisia, Berberis, Brachyglottis, Camellia,Ceanothus, Choisya, Cistus, Convolvulus cneorum, Erica, Hebe, Fatsia, Mahonia and Viburnum.
shrubs such as Hydrangea, Forsythia, Edgeworthia and Buddleja
Groundcover plants including Lonicera pileata, periwinkle, Rubus tricolor and Rubus calycinoides.
Hedging plants such as box, cherry laurel, Escallonia, holly, Loniceranitida, Portuguese laurel and privet.
Herbs including bay, hyssop, lavender, rosemary, rue, sage and thyme.
Trees that can be propagated as semi-ripe cuttings include Magnolia grandiflora and holly, as well as many evergreen conifers.
When to take semi-ripe cuttings
are selected from this season’s growth. The base of the cutting should be hard, while the tip is still soft. This material is available in late summer until mid-autumn.
Avoid damaged, unhealthy, over-vigorous or atypical material, selecting shoots that are more horizontal in habit with short internodes (gaps between the leaves). To produce suitable material for semi-ripe cuttings, hard prune unproductive stock plants in spring to stimulate new growth to take from.
It is worth noting that, before mid-summer, propagate by taking softwood cuttings . And, after mid-autumn, the wood hardens, so take hardwood cuttings then.
How to take semi-ripe cuttings
Choose healthy material that is free of pests and diseases and remove it with sharp, clean tools. It is best to take in the morning to avoid wilting.
There are four different types of semi-ripe cuttings:
- The basic method cuts just below a leaf to leave a prepared cutting of 10-15cm (4-6in) in length.
- Heel cuttings: Where the cutting is pulled away with a piece of the stem, can be used – Ceanothus and Berberis are commonly propagated from heel cuttings
- : Where the shoot is severed at its base. There is often a slight swelling here and the cut should go through this area. Brooms respond well to this method
- Mallet cuttings: Are sometimes used for Mahonia. Each leaf is planted as a cutting, burying it with a piece of stem attached
Taking a basic semi-ripe cutting
- Select the cuttings from this season’s growth and remove them using sharp secateurs.
- Place the cuttings in a plastic bag straight away. Keep the bag in the shade or, in hot weather, the fridge until you are ready to prepare the cuttings. However, aim to pot the cuttings within 12 hours.
- Prepare the cuttings by trimming them to 10-15cm (4-6in) in length, cutting just below a leaf node. Next, remove the lowest leaves and the soft tips. There will usually be about four leaves remaining.
- Dip the bottom of the cutting in fresh rooting powder, ensuring that the cut is well covered. Tap gently to remove the excess.
- On large-leaved shrubs, cut the leaf in half to reduce water loss.
- For difficult-to-root shrubs, such as Magnolia grandiflora, try ‘wounding’. This is the removal of a sliver of 2.5cm (1in) long on one side of the stem at the base.
- Insert the cuttings into suitably-sized containers filled with cuttings – use 50 per cent free-draining potting compost mixed with 50 per cent or . Water well and allow to drain.
- Place the container of cuttings in a greenhouse. Alternatively, cover pots with a plastic bag and put in a warm, light position, out of direct sunlight. Remember to remove excess moisture, but keep compost damp. Cuttings taken in summer seldom need bottom heat but by autumn cuttings root more quickly in a .
Hardy shrubs can also be rooted directly in the soil, ideally enriched with plenty of organic matter, in cold frames or low tunnels of polythene sheeting, but may not root fully until late spring the following year.
Aftercare
Rooting is quick for taken in summer. Here are more tips to help you get good results:
- Ensure that the remains moist until the cuttings are well rooted, shading the greenhouses and cold frames in hot weather.
- Remove any dead or diseased cuttings that appear.
- Additionally, for cuttings in outdoor beds and cold frames, remove any fallen leaves.
- Cuttings rooted in greenhouses and propagators will need for two to three weeks before or planting. Cold frames, unheated greenhouses or even under horticultural are good places to .
Problems
Fungal moulds and rots can cause severe losses. Fungicide dips are no longer available, but regularly removing diseased material and ensuring good to help remove excess moisture (without allowing the to wilt) can help.






