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Choose your tree carefully, to suit your growing conditions and the available space. See our guides to growing trees , buying trees and trees for smaller gardens for more advice.

Trees are usually bought in pots, although some (especially fruit trees) may be available without pots ( bare-root

These have been lifted from the ground while dormant, with little or no soil around their roots. Various plants may be available bare root, including fruit trees, hedging plants and some perennials. They are generally cheaper than plants in containers, but are only available in winter/early spring, while dormant or rootballed) between autumn and spring from specialist suppliers. All can be planted in the following way.

The best time to plant is from autumn to spring, as long as the ground isn’t too wet or frozen. Containerised trees can be planted at other times, but they may need more aftercare to help them settle in. Avoid planting in hot or dry weather.

What you’ll need to plant a tree:

• Bare-root or containerised tree
• Spade and fork
• Bucket of water
• Watering can or hose
• Tree guard or spiral (optional)
• Mulch
  Mulch is a layer of material, at least 5cm (2in) thick, applied to the soil surface in late autumn to late winter (Nov-Feb). It is used to provide frost protection, improve plant growth by adding nutrients or increasing organic matter content, reducing water loss from the soil, for decorative purposes and suppressing weeds. Examples include well-rotted garden compost and manure, chipped bark, gravel, grit and slate chippings. ( organic matter , such as chipped bark
  Bark is the outermost layer of woody plants (trees, shrubs and woody climbers). It is several cells thick and provides protection against physical damage, disease and environmental stresses. Bark comes in a wide variety of colours and patterns, and these can help gardeners when identifying plants. The fissures and crevices of bark on older plants also creates valuable habitat for many garden creatures as well as lichens and small plants. )
• Sturdy stake, mallet and tree tie

• Dig a hole Make sure it's the same depth as the tree’s rootball
  The roots and accompanying soil when a plant is removed from a container or lifted from the ground. but three times as wide. Loosen the soil around the sides of the hole with a fork if necessary.

• Soak the rootball Soak thoroughly before planting – standing the tree in a bucket of water is an easy way to do this. Then remove the tree from its pot.

• Check the rootball Gently loosen the roots if they’re tightly packed, to encourage them to grow outwards into the soil.

• Position your tree Place it in the hole, so the point where the roots meet the trunk is level with the soil surface. Check the level using a cane
  A cane is a slender, straight, length of woody plant material, usually bamboo. Canes are primarily used as plant supports. The fruiting stems of blackberries, raspberries and hybrid berries (such as loganberries and tayberries) are also known as canes, so these crops are often referred to as cane fruit. or piece of wood, and adjust if necessary. Step back and assess the tree – is it showing off its best side? If not, turn it until you’re happy with the positioning.

• Refill the hole Refill around the rootball, firming down the soil with your heel to ensure there are no air pockets. Check that the stem is still upright afterwards.

• Add a tree guard or spiral Fit one of these around the base of the trunk if wildlife such as rabbits visit your garden and may want to nibble the bark
  Bark is the outermost layer of woody plants (trees, shrubs and woody climbers). It is several cells thick and provides protection against physical damage, disease and environmental stresses. Bark comes in a wide variety of colours and patterns, and these can help gardeners when identifying plants. The fissures and crevices of bark on older plants also creates valuable habitat for many garden creatures as well as lichens and small plants. .

• Water well and mulch
  Mulch is a layer of material, at least 5cm (2in) thick, applied to the soil surface in late autumn to late winter (Nov-Feb). It is used to provide frost protection, improve plant growth by adding nutrients or increasing organic matter content, reducing water loss from the soil, for decorative purposes and suppressing weeds. Examples include well-rotted garden compost and manure, chipped bark, gravel, grit and slate chippings. Water the tree to thoroughly soak its rootball. Then, spread a mulch of organic matter over the surface of the soil, in a layer 5–8cm (2–3in) thick. This will help to hold moisture in the soil and deter weeds. Leave a 10cm (4in) mulch-free gap around the base of the trunk. See our guide to mulching .

• Insert a sturdy stake Insert at a 45 degree angle, using a mallet to make sure it’s deeply anchored. Then attach the trunk to the stake with a flexible tree tie. This will hold the base of the trunk and rootball steady, allowing the roots to get well established, while letting the upper part of the trunk flex and strengthen. See our guide to staking trees .

Watch our 911±¬ÁÏ Masterclass on trees – how and when to plant:

• Water your new tree regularly for at least a year or two, especially during dry spells.
• Check the stake and tree tieannually, loosening the tie gradually as the trunk expands. Keep the stake in place for two to three years, until the tree is firmly rooted in.
• Top up the mulch at least once a year, to help hold moisture in the soil.